Yongnuo Speedlite YN460-II

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In the end, I couldn’t resist ordering the YN460-II even though my arsenal of flashes is (mostly) built around the Nikon SB series. In a previous post, I wrote about replacing the foot of a damaged SB-24. I actually did not expect to win that damaged SB-24 and had, in fact, ordered the YN460-II just two days prior. Fifteen days later, the YN460-II arrived in a plain brown wrapper, shipped via airmail from Hong Kong.

The YN460-II is a simple and inexpensive flash unit that is an upgrade of the (what else) YN460. The upgrade consists of more power (claims Guide Number of 53 instead of 33), faster recycling and fine tuning for the flash power. The flash head has both tilt and swivel. The YN460-II has two operating modes: manual flash and optical slave flash. In either operating mode, the YN460-II flash power must be set manually.

Here are my first thoughts and impressions.

My first concern was the packaging. Although the shipping envelope was lightly padded, the YN460-II box was simply placed inside it without additional padding. There was no padding inside the box although the flash was inside a plastic bag which was inside a nice black cloth bag. In spite of my concerns, all parts arrived in good condition.

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The YN460-II is a nice looking flash with a better quality appearance that I expected. The tilt/swivel head position is held by friction; that is, just grab it and turn/tilt – no release buttons to push. This is fine for now but I wonder if it will become sloppy loose with much use.

I dropped a set of PowerEx NiMh rechargeables into the YN460-II and pressed the ON button. Nothing. Press again – nothing again. Did I get a bad flash? A quick glance at the instructions confirmed that I was indeed pushing the ON/OFF button but should have been holding it down for 2 seconds. Duh. Firing a few quick pops manually, the YN460-II took about 8 seconds to recycle to full power; the SB-28 from which I robbed the batteries took about 9 seconds. (Time to recharge?) Recycling was near instantaneous at minimum power setting. (A fresh set of PowerEx reduced the recycle time to less than 5 seconds.)

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Changing the flash power is easy and very visual: Press the Power +/- button and watch the lights change. However, the button must be pressed for each step change. Same for changing modes: Press the Mode button and watch the lights change. When the YN460-II is turned on, the mode is set to manual and the flash power is set to the minimum; it does not remember the previous settings.

In contrast to the simplicity of setting flash power, “fine-tuning” was not so simple. Well, I could follow the instructions but the flash power output level lights do not remain as set so I had no confidence in what I’d done. The procedure is to press and hold the MODE and PILOT buttons until the middle light blinks then use the +/- button to fine tune. This seems OK except that the output level lights soon revert to the non-fine tuned display. Pressing MODE and PILOT again shows the fine-tuned setting. I quickly resolved not to use the fine tuning feature (for now anyway). Illustrated is 1 stop down from maximum (i.e., would be half power) but then 2 clicks farther down using "fine tuning".

Somewhat skeptically checking the YN460-II in optical slave mode, I found that it works very well with my Canon G9. In fact, the YN460-II was triggered by the G9 flash in both the S1 and S2 settings when the G9 was in P mode. With the G9 in manual mode (no pre-flash emitted), the YN460-II was triggered only in its S1 mode. Even more surprising, these quick tests were shot at 1/500 second! I was impressed. With my 7D, the YN460-II also worked in both S1 and S2 modes when the 7D was set for ETTL; however, at 1/200 second and faster, S2 is necessary. In a dimly lit room, triggering is easily possible at a distance of some 20 feet. The obvious conclusion is to use S1 for pure manual flash and S2 for triggering with ETTL -- as advertised.

Next up was to test the YN460-II with my Cactus wireless triggers. The only way to connect to the YN460-II is through the hot shoe. This is OK with me because my Cactus units are more reliable when connected via the hot shoe. The YN460-II worked fine with my Cactus wireless triggers and could be triggered at 1/640 second using the Canon G9.

Finally, I compared the flash power of the YN460-II to some other flashes. I did this by shooting the flashes directly mounted on my Canon G9 camera in full manual mode. Just firing shots across a dimly lit room, it seems to me that the YN460-II is not as powerful as the Canon 580EX but is similar to the Nikon SB-28 and more powerful than the SB-24. In fact, the relative power of all those flashes seems to be about as listed in my post on guide numbers. I also noticed that the YN460-II seems a bit “cool” in color cast, especially in comparison to the Canon 580EX (which seems a bit warm).

All in all, my YN460-II works and seems to work as advertised. I’m pretty happy with this one – in fact, am thinking about getting another one.

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Guide Number

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The guide number of a flash provides a simple means for comparing flash power and for estimating the necessary f-stop for proper exposure when using flash. Strangely, I’ve not previously posted about guide numbers, so here goes.

Divide the guide number by the distance to the subject to get the f-stop.

Is that it? How could this possibly work? Imagine setting up a totally manual single flash such that the exposure is correct; the guide number is then defined as
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GN= distance x camera f-stop
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If the distance is in meters, then the GN is expressed in meters. If the distance is in feet, then the GN is expressed in feet. (To convert a GN given in meters to a GN given in feet, multiply the meters GN x 3.28) .

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To further complicate matters, the guide number changes with film/sensor ISO speed. The convention is that ISO 100 is a convenient reference point. If you know the guide number at ISO 100 then the guide number at ISO 400 is 2x the GN at ISO 100 (that is, the square root of the ratio).

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Here are some examples of guide numbers:

Canon G9 built-in flash: GN = (about) 3 m; not specifically provided
Canon 7D built-in flash: GN= 12 m
Canon 580EX: GN=58 m
Canon 420EX: GN = 42m
Canon 220EX: GN = 22 m
Nikon SB-28: GN = 50 m
Nikon SB-24: GN = 36 m
Yongnuo 460-II: GN = 53 m

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Notice that the Canon flash model number is the guide number followed by a zero. For flashes with zoom capability, the manufacturers usually provide the guide number at maximum zoom (probably because this is a larger number). Sometimes tables of guide numbers are provided at various zoom and ISO settings.

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Here's an example of the guide number in use. Suppose that your flash has GN=40 m, your camera is set for ISO 100 and the flash is 5 meters from the subject. Divide 40 by 5 to get 8 – this is the correct f-stop for your camera (i.e., set f8 on the camera).

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The guide number is best used as a first approximation and actual results vary considerably with the location, flash orientation, bounced light, etc., etc.

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Wikipedia and the Strobist have more detailed information on guide numbers.

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SB-24 Foot Replacement

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As noted in other postings, I frequently use Nikon flashes, especially the SB-28 and SB-24, with my Canon G9. The SB-28 and SB-24 are particularly useful with my Cactus wireless trigger (works with my G9, 20D and 7D) and sometimes a used SB-24 is available at a low price. I just bought another used SB-24 that had a broken foot but was otherwise working. I then bought a replacement foot, installed it and now have another working SB-24 flash. Here’s how I replaced the foot.

But first, the cowardly disclaimer: These are not instructions. I’m just writing about what I did. Proceed at your own risk. I’m not responsible for damage or injury.

First I checked the old and damaged SB-24 to see if it worked at all; it did. I then triggered the flash and immediately turned it off and removed the batteries. While replacing the foot, I tried not to touch the various wires and contacts but, of course, did touch them; however, no shocks, no sparks. You may not be so lucky -- I don't know.

The replacement process is basically to remove four exterior screws and then three interior screws to separate the component parts. The locking ring must be removed from the old foot and placed on the new foot.

Here's the old foot and the new foot with the locking ring from the old foot.

It took a bit of patience and trial and error to get the contact pins aligned with the new foot. I finally realized that the pins were not sliding smoothly in the holes of the new foot. Taking a round screwdriver, I reamed and cleaned the holes and the contact pins then slid into place easily.

Even though this setup is very ungainly, it demonstrates that the new foot has saved the old SB-24 from the scrapheap and provided me with an inexpensive third SB-24.

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Post 200

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Light Description began a little more than three years ago; this is post number 200. Nothing particularly surprising in this post except the realization of averaging more than one post per week.

Taking a quick look at the Labels (left hand side of the display), most of the past posts have centered around learning to use the Canon G9 and/or flash. I still have and use the G9 regularly but probably will place more emphasis on the 7D during 2010. Flash is still intriguing to me and I have much to learn about it.

More to come in 2010 …

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7D Sync Speed

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Inspired by the Strobist, I checked my 7D to be certain of the sync speed when using flash. According to the 7D manual (pages 111 and 207), the maximum sync speed is 1/250 second. That is, because the 7D uses a mechanical shutter with all its accompanying timings, 1/250 second is the fastest shutter speed that can be used with flash. For the most part, this is the case with my own 7D but there are some variations.

My G9 with its electronic shutter could be used up to about 1/2500 second sync speed provided it did not know much about the flash that was attached. To take advantage of this odd behavior, I often used a Nikon SB-28 with the G9.

Before going too much further, yes, I am aware that the Canon flash system can operate in “High Speed” mode at shutter speeds faster than 1/250 second. However, High Speed mode uses pulses of light and the net lighting power is significantly reduced. Yes, High Speed flash mode works and is useful but the name of today’s game is syncing the 7D to that single burst of light when the camera is in normal flash mode.

The first clue to 7D flash sync occurs when using the built-in popup flash. There’s no way to set a shutter speed above 1/250 second. Also, there’s no High Speed mode for the popup flash. On the more positive side, at 1/250 second, the light appeared to be fully distributed over the shutter. Well, at least that experiment was easy.

Next, I tried a Canon 580EX, 420EX and 380EX. All acted similarly with respect to sync speed. The 1/250 second shutter speed combined with flash produced even lighting but faster apparent shutter speeds reverted to 1/250 unless the flash was placed in High Speed mode. I even tried the 580EX in full manual mode with the same results: 1/250 second is the fastest available shutter speed.

Time to try the Nikon SB-28. It syncs at 1/320 second! At 1/400 second there was a dark edge at the bottom of the image. About half the frame was dark at 1/800 second.

What about wireless? My cheap Cactus wireless triggers at 1/500 second on my G9 and, on a good day, even 1/640. Those same units are limited to 1/200 second on the Nikon SB-28 and Vivitar 285HV when used with the 7D.

I’ve been using the 7D popup flash to trigger the 580EX and really like this combination; however, the maximum sync speed is 1/250 second because the popup cannot operate in High Speed mode.

So the 1/250 second limitation is basically true. Oh well, if necessary, I still have the G9.
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7D AF-ON

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I’m learning to use the AF-ON button on my 7D. Well, perhaps learning to use is not quite the best wording. AF-ON is, after all, just a button. I can already press it but I’m not in the habit of doing so. My habit is to press the shutter release button halfway, hesitate and then complete the press.

To take a picture, you point the camera at the subject and press the button – right? George Eastman built his company around the motto “You press the button, we do the rest”. More recent is the ongoing joke slogan about PHD cameras (“Push Here Dummy”).

The shutter button on many (most?) modern cameras actually has two “stopping points” or triggering positions. The first position is about halfway down. You can feel this first position by pressing the shutter button lightly and slowly. With a little practice, you can quickly get a feel for the effort and distance and the half-pressed button then comes quickly and naturally. The second position is the actual stopping point and is at the bottom of the shutter button stroke or press. The half-press has been my habit for a long time. It was especially useful with the G3 and G9 because those cameras had a very noticeable shutter lag unless the half-press technique was used. In addition to reducing shutter lag, the half-press was especially useful in the “focus, recompose, shoot” technique that I almost always use.

In addition to the two position shutter button, the 7D also has the AF-ON button. This button acts like the half-pressed shutter button. So what? Why use AF-ON ?

In addition to focusing, the AF-ON button locks focus as long as the button is held down. This means that I can focus, recompose, shoot, recompose, shoot, shoot, shoot, recompose, shoot, etc., etc. There’s no need to refocus as long as I remember to hold down the button. This is especially useful in portrait shooting. I’m no longer waving the camera around as I continually focus, recompose and shoot.

A good feature, AF-ON .
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Top 3

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The votes are in (courtesy of SmugMug statistics -- not visible publicly) and the most popular of my Top Ten is "Plantation Bedroom". In this case, most popular is awarded based on my eyeball judgement of the number of views with emphasis on views of large image sizes and the amount of bandwidth used in viewing. Plantation Bedroom is the winner by nearly a 3:1 margin. It was one of my early attempts at HDR and is derived from 7 images (sometimes I say 9 -- I've forgotten but it was more than 5) from the 20D.




Second place goes to "'Round the Campfire" which still makes me smile every time I see it. Another 20D shot, this one was carefully planned but still required a bit of cloning and layering multiple shots. I've even made a Blurb book of my Swiss Army Knives.

... and in third place we have the aptly entitled "Bike on Beach". This one was made with medium format twin lens reflex (TLR) film camera.

The other 7 pictures received nearly equal attention. At this time, I'm not replacing any of them but I am tempted to do so.

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